While the Corsair was away at AJ Restorations I had a go at rebuilding the Zenith 361V carburettor. I had bought another one to practice on first, but it was mainly designed for a Land Rover application as the fuel inlet was different and I wasn’t sure on some of the other internal subtle differences, so it was not suitable for the Corsair application. The only part I salvaged was the rod connecting the floats as the original was bent. I refrained from swapping the pump too as the Land Rover one had a much softer spring and I wondered if that would have an adverse effect on final operation.
The images are in a sequential order and partially explain the process.
Plenty of time was spent taking it apart and with the old gasket scrapped off and the whole carb dismantled, the mating faces of the body were rubbed on 1200 grit wet and dry paper with WD40 as a lubricant to flatten the surfaces. Plenty of carb cleaner was sprayed in all the holes and orifices then blown through with an air duster but it wasn’t very powerful.
I used these useful links to help in my research for what to do:
- landrovernet.com – Carb rebuild advice
- Youtube – strip down of a zenith carburettor
- Youtube – clean with brake cleaner…
- Youtube – how a carb works
- cloudfiles – Useful PDF
- landyzone.co.uk – Landyzone Forum Post
At this point the carburettor is untested but no doubt a report will be done once it has been fitted. I hope that was of interest and thanks for viewing.
The next step with the Corsair has been decided and after a chat with John from AJ Restorations he came back with a a plan and two prices on tackling the front chassis/anti-roll bar mountings problem. It was either the repair job that was cheaper but only would use part of the repair panels I bought and be worked around the bumper mounts and other non-essential chassis work. The second quote was for a restoration of the front chassis legs and I was assured it would look as good as new.
To help get the car ready I had a spare half hour in the garage that enabled removal of the radiator to give more access to the chassis area as per the photos. The front bumper still needs to be removed but climbing around under the car is needed and can be done another day.
I decided to go with the restoration, though it is more expensive and will use up a lot of my budget it will be for the long term, an investment in maintaining if not enhancing the cars value. The corsair is booked to go in for it restoration from next week and done over August.
Another nice day last week (Tuesday 5th July) and I had the Corsair out on the driveway to adjust the tappets and refit the drivers side window winder mechanism.
Adjusting the tappets wasn’t as difficult as I thought it was going to be, the only thing I had to keep an eye on was the sequence of adjusted inlet and exhaust tappets with the corresponding feeler gauge size. I’m sure I missed one or two, while the engine sounds a lot quieter there is still a tappety noise, something I’ll revisit another time.
I had welded the broken winder arms together again a few weeks back and it looked and felt a lot stronger this time. Fitting wasn’t too traumatic the only tricky bit was getting the clips to clip on and hold the arms in place. With the welding repair done, what I didn’t do last time and that was to drill a hole and tap a thread so a screw could be fitted to hold the winder handle in place. Just got to do the same on the passenger side. I seem to remember these window winder mechanisms are from a Triumph Spitfire and cost me £22 for the pair back in 2001/02 and then I had to chop them up to fit. The inside runners were all rusty and falling apart so the glass rattled against the door top when wound in the up position.
I had a visit from John from AJ Restorations the other day to look at pricing the front chassis welding repair. I bought some repair sections from the MK1 Cortina club and have become a member of the club as well.
Had some time to scrape out a fair amount of rust from around the front anti-roll bar mounts, problem was I couldn’t loosen or remove the bolts with one shearing off all a bit too easily. The welding shouldn’t bee too difficult but it is relocating the anti-roll bar mounts or sorting out the sheared bolt. Cost is also a factor – but I have a couple of options but may have to wait.
I’ve other jobs to be done (tappets & carb rebuild) but while the car is still drivable they can wait until the welding is organised or done. Reading up on the carburettor refurbishment the other week has highlighted the probable cause of the problems and a rebuild should sort them out.
Thanks for reading. Dom
Got the Corsair back home without an MOT. It needed a fair bit of welding to the front end just behind the front valance where the anti-roll bar mounts are. The estimate for the welding was over £200 so I decided to have the car back and do as much my self in preparation and cleaning the affected area ready for welding by some one else.
The plus side to the pre-MOT inspection is that I got advice on other areas needing attention as well as several minor fixes done along the way. The Tappets need to be re-gapped/adjusted and the carburettor needs rebuilding and cleaning as the throttle doesn’t appear to move to full throttle. I also need to source a new or working main beam/indicator steering column stalk due to the full beam light switch not working. On tick over the car ran fine after some adjustments by Hill Top Motors but possibly due to the throttle not opening up enough, driving under load was still tricky with back fire and lacking power. If I was very gentle with the throttle it would be OK.
It would have been nice to have had it on the road for June, but I have got this far taking my time, I don’t want to rush into paying for a welding job that I could help with to save costs.
It was time to get the Corsair to a garage for a pre-MOT check up to see how much more was needed to be done. Driving the old car over to Hilltop Motors, Shaftesbury at 7am was a bit stressful as it was back firing, running rough and the first time I had driven it any distance for over 13 years. I never got fast enough to get beyond third gear but the car felt good with the steering what with the new tie-rod ends and steering idler.
First impressions from Martyn weren’t too bad, a few minor faults like rear brakes were a bit sticky, the full beam light switch was faulty and water leak from the lower cooling hose from a corroded clip. But the main issues were the front anti roll bar mounts which were close to some corrosion on the front cross member. The Corsair will be at the garage for a few days with the hope that it comes away with a MOT.
Tackling the cooling system was meant to be a fairly straightforward affair, but this is me we’re talking about here. Last week I took a long way around of missed turnings and going back on myself to get to Yeovil to drop off the Corsair radiator at Rayson Radiators for them to recondition. In the afternoon they called back with the price and that they may get it done by the Saturday (in 2 days). So that evening in the garage I decided to prepare the engine for flushing by removing the thermostat housing on the inlet manifold only to shear one of the 2 bolts. Calmly, I set about drilling the broken nut before stopping for the evening and leaving it for a couple more days.
A successful and productive day sorting out a few minor niggles (Sunday 1st May). First the blowing exhaust was sorted out, one of the joins on the left hand down pipe hadn’t completely slid in. Then the return fuel line was re-installed, luckily I had kept it along with the old fuel delivery line, though I had to dig it out from a shelving collapse in the carport. It took a while to wiggle it all in to place which necessitated the prop shaft being dropped down again, the hand brake cable being detached and trim off the rusted and damaged pipe ends.